I actually wanted to dedicate this solely to our experience in Bhanjara Basti but a little prologue is in order if only for the chronological order of my travel keeping's.

We lazed out after Holi for the whole day, a 'hang' day as we call it in our family jargon.
The next day brought us to visit the Amber Fort an amazing construction surrounded, if I am not mistaken by a nineteen kilometer wall. This fort was a play ground by excellence for the kids. Stairs and walkways, and more snail stairs and narrow corridors and passages.
An excellent vegetarian lunch a tali, assorted small tastes of different veggies spices and odors, a walk
in the bazaar looking for nothing in particular, a piece of chocolate for the shoe shine kid, more content with the choc then the few rupees I gave him, and the stone dealers showing off what they have to sell to local merchants, and back to the hotel. We are looking forward and wondering where we are going to be tomorrow.
The big courtyard was fantastic for the kids who found some balls a cricket bat and croquet clubs to play with. They hadn't discovered the computer room till the next day.
Madan led us to our rooms. Basic with beds made of wood and ropes for a frame, it reminded me of my teens in the kibbutz. The kids had their room next to us.
We were treated to a very tasteful lunch and Madan proceeded to explain what the project was about more on that later. We were also explained that the showers were to be taken from a bucket with a cup, hot water was made in a big double faced kettle with a whole in the middle where a fire was heating the water, it is done this way due to water shortage. One more thing to be said, the place was immaculately clean you could eat of the floor, well on a day without wind after sweeping the dust coming in from the sandy surroundings. Our neighbors consisted of cattle scattered around a smaller courtyard.
AVI is a volunteer based project started by Madan and a few Sweeds and Danish, to help settling nomad kids living in poor circumstances around Sikar. They provide board and food facilities for up to twenty volunteers at the time for a meager fee, and as added bonus you get workshops and discussions on local culture. Their aim is to be able in the long run to provide, through schooling a future to these kids.
What we did and saw was a very small facet of what help is brought here when more volunteers are around.
We were brought to Banjara Basti by tuk tuk, upon arrival some kids ran to meet us and just one look revealed the gravity of the living circumstances.
Upon touring the camp the one thing I Have noticed about India in general remained. Even here living in tents amidst the garbage, with virtually nothing but a couple of water taps, no basic hygiene and scraps for food people don't seem unhappy and portray to be resigned to their faith, almost as if having any expectations let alone hope would be dangerous.
The cast system is intricate in India and even here people of one cast don't mingle with others, to the point where, when enough volunteers are present, three schools are used because even the kids are not allowed to interact.
The kids are first gathered by going around the camp, then lined up (something they learn here) for washing hand and face (another thing learned here), then they are given a hearty meal (no food no one is interested in going to school), before they are divided in groups of learners and kindergarten.
These kids are unwashed, most of them have lice, most of the bigger kids, five to ten, are carrying their younger brother or sister, half naked grey, black with dirt, snotty faces, layers of dirt in their teeth, wounded, handicapped, unattended.
On the other hand the moms wearing colorful sari's, to contrast the dirt, silver bangles on their arms, jewelry from nose to ear, silver belts and anklets.
The older teenager looking sharp well dressed as if they had a role in some Bollywood movie keep on blowing up there chest saying one fotoo.
The dads together with the older boys playing cards, smoking drinking.
The old enough kids are ordered to go and sort garbage in town, carton, metal and plastic are worth some Rupee when sold for recycling. Whatever money they make is used by the men to furfill their needs or addiction.
One kid going to school till sixteen, could easily support the whole family, instead they are pulled
away from education to do filthy chores, in order to fulfill daily priorities of the elders that lay elsewhere then any common sense dictates.
As I am writing this I feel,as if I am re-writing in a simplistic way parts of Oliver Twist or any grim story where the merry go round, unlike some passing by nomads installed for two Rupee a round, never ever stops.
Misery just keeps adding, especially if you are a woman.
The AVI project here seems like a needle in a hay stack but if you can change one life out of hundreds, isn't that what it's all about. Even if it just lightens the daily burden for a while.
I am in awe at what Madan and the volunteers are doing here, so much needs to be done.
I am proud of my family even if it did feel like voyeurism being there so short a time.
Julian and Matthew positioned themselves as helpers. They distributed food helped washing hands played and entertained the children, even if Djudju was bothered by everyone wanting to touch his blond curls.
Val with her gift to get kids attention was working her magic with the younger ones.
I guess that amidst the filth what struck me besides this seemingly acceptance of their faith was, the need for positive attention and I measure my words and use attention, because just that was enough to make those kids smile differently, more genuinely, just the fact that someone showed them attention and a little care.
We left this amazing experience by saying goodbye to Madan and his wonderfully welcoming family and continued to Bikaner to stay in a huge palace built by a Maharaja some hundred years ago, yet a mixture of feelings on everyone's mind.
I think no I know we have all grown from this and again I am especially proud of my kids for expressing their gratitude being here in this hotel and taking the time to share and recognize how lucky they are to be where they are, and taking time to place the situation of the kids in Banjara Basty.


The next day brought us to visit the Amber Fort an amazing construction surrounded, if I am not mistaken by a nineteen kilometer wall. This fort was a play ground by excellence for the kids. Stairs and walkways, and more snail stairs and narrow corridors and passages.
An excellent vegetarian lunch a tali, assorted small tastes of different veggies spices and odors, a walk


We contacted Madan, responsible for a volunteer project close to Sikar a little town hundred fifty kilometers North of Jaipur a place called VIA.
We arrived in the little village of Kanwar Pura, Hanuman our driver, dropped us of in front of a courtyard, light blue walls. An old man greeted us with slightly crooked hands from arthritis, pressed together. Madan the old mans son led us through the gate into a sandy courtyard, a few constructions in the back, kitchen stables, two houses, and on our left showers and toilets. I am being descriptive cause the place had something special about it, or was it what we lived the next two says that made it special. The big courtyard was fantastic for the kids who found some balls a cricket bat and croquet clubs to play with. They hadn't discovered the computer room till the next day.
Madan led us to our rooms. Basic with beds made of wood and ropes for a frame, it reminded me of my teens in the kibbutz. The kids had their room next to us.
We were treated to a very tasteful lunch and Madan proceeded to explain what the project was about more on that later. We were also explained that the showers were to be taken from a bucket with a cup, hot water was made in a big double faced kettle with a whole in the middle where a fire was heating the water, it is done this way due to water shortage. One more thing to be said, the place was immaculately clean you could eat of the floor, well on a day without wind after sweeping the dust coming in from the sandy surroundings. Our neighbors consisted of cattle scattered around a smaller courtyard.
AVI is a volunteer based project started by Madan and a few Sweeds and Danish, to help settling nomad kids living in poor circumstances around Sikar. They provide board and food facilities for up to twenty volunteers at the time for a meager fee, and as added bonus you get workshops and discussions on local culture. Their aim is to be able in the long run to provide, through schooling a future to these kids.
What we did and saw was a very small facet of what help is brought here when more volunteers are around.

Upon touring the camp the one thing I Have noticed about India in general remained. Even here living in tents amidst the garbage, with virtually nothing but a couple of water taps, no basic hygiene and scraps for food people don't seem unhappy and portray to be resigned to their faith, almost as if having any expectations let alone hope would be dangerous.
The cast system is intricate in India and even here people of one cast don't mingle with others, to the point where, when enough volunteers are present, three schools are used because even the kids are not allowed to interact.
The kids are first gathered by going around the camp, then lined up (something they learn here) for washing hand and face (another thing learned here), then they are given a hearty meal (no food no one is interested in going to school), before they are divided in groups of learners and kindergarten.

On the other hand the moms wearing colorful sari's, to contrast the dirt, silver bangles on their arms, jewelry from nose to ear, silver belts and anklets.
The older teenager looking sharp well dressed as if they had a role in some Bollywood movie keep on blowing up there chest saying one fotoo.
The dads together with the older boys playing cards, smoking drinking.
The old enough kids are ordered to go and sort garbage in town, carton, metal and plastic are worth some Rupee when sold for recycling. Whatever money they make is used by the men to furfill their needs or addiction.
One kid going to school till sixteen, could easily support the whole family, instead they are pulled

As I am writing this I feel,as if I am re-writing in a simplistic way parts of Oliver Twist or any grim story where the merry go round, unlike some passing by nomads installed for two Rupee a round, never ever stops.
Misery just keeps adding, especially if you are a woman.
The AVI project here seems like a needle in a hay stack but if you can change one life out of hundreds, isn't that what it's all about. Even if it just lightens the daily burden for a while.
I am in awe at what Madan and the volunteers are doing here, so much needs to be done.
I am proud of my family even if it did feel like voyeurism being there so short a time.

Val with her gift to get kids attention was working her magic with the younger ones.

We left this amazing experience by saying goodbye to Madan and his wonderfully welcoming family and continued to Bikaner to stay in a huge palace built by a Maharaja some hundred years ago, yet a mixture of feelings on everyone's mind.

Hey guys,
ReplyDeleteWhat an experience you are living!
I hope you coming through this place made those needed people smile
in their heart even if it was for a nano second of their existence. Isn't life about that one smile someone gives you, that one handshake, that one greeting?
The experience your young children lived will and especially Matthew be an image he'll probably carry for à long while!
Loving you
Noenkel
i loved what you passed now as ewperience its wonderfull and beautifull even that you gave those people just 2 days of your life but for them those 2 days they will never forget.......And what on experience for your children to see misery and povrety etc etc to you think that juji understand it??????in fact we all now that there is misery and poverty but to live it and see it close it not the same its 1000000000000 times more touching and that gives you to think i admire the people that give a part of their life to save a few of them it was like i lived it myself while reading you hen thank you to let us participate those emotionnel moments kisses from hetty aron
ReplyDeleteincredible India
ReplyDeleteWat een prachtige foto's van die kinderen, maar ik kan geloven dat het een hoop 'mixed emotions' met zich meebrengt om daar te vertoeven, en dan de vrijheid te hebben om terug te kunnen vertrekken naar 'betere oorden'. Blijf genieten van jullie trip!
ReplyDelete